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Please use this identifier to cite or link to this item: http://hdl.handle.net/1959.3/76453
- Non-Gaussian properties of shallow water waves in crossing seas
- Toffoli, A.; Onorato, M.; Osborne, A. R.; Monbaliu, J.
- The Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation, an extension of the Korteweg-de Vries equation in two horizontal dimensions, is here used to study the statistical properties of random shallow water waves in constant depth for crossing sea states. Numerical simulations indicate that the interaction of two crossing wave trains generates steep and high amplitude peaks, thus enhancing the deviation of the surface elevation from the Gaussian statistics. The analysis of the skewness and the kurtosis shows that the statistical properties depend on the angle between the two wave trains.
- Publication type
- Book chapter
- Extreme ocean waves / E. Pelinovsky and C. Kharif (eds.), pp. 53-69
- Publication year
- FOR Code(s)
- 040503 Physical Oceanography; 091103 Ocean Engineering
- Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation; Shallow water; Water depth; Wave trains
- 9781402083136, 1402083130
- Publisher URL
- Copyright © Springer Science+Business Media B.V., 2008.
- Peer reviewed