Non-Gaussian properties of shallow water waves in crossing seas

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Please use this identifier to cite or link to this item: http://hdl.handle.net/1959.3/76453

Title: Non-Gaussian properties of shallow water waves in crossing seas
Author(s): Toffoli, A.; Onorato, M.; Osborne, A. R.; Monbaliu, J.
Abstract: The Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation, an extension of the Korteweg-de Vries equation in two horizontal dimensions, is here used to study the statistical properties of random shallow water waves in constant depth for crossing sea states. Numerical simulations indicate that the interaction of two crossing wave trains generates steep and high amplitude peaks, thus enhancing the deviation of the surface elevation from the Gaussian statistics. The analysis of the skewness and the kurtosis shows that the statistical properties depend on the angle between the two wave trains.
Publication type: Book chapter
Source: Extreme ocean waves / E. Pelinovsky and C. Kharif (eds.), pp. 53-69
Publication year: 2008
FOR Code(s): 040503 Physical Oceanography; 091103 Ocean Engineering
Keyword(s): Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation; Shallow water; Water depth; Wave trains
Publisher: Springer
ISBN: 9781402083136, 1402083130
Publisher URL: http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4020-8314-3_3
Peer reviewed