Statistical properties of mechanically generated surface gravity waves: a laboratory experiment in a three-dimensional wave basin

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Title: Statistical properties of mechanically generated surface gravity waves: a laboratory experiment in a three-dimensional wave basin
Author(s): Onorato, M.; Cavaleri, L.; Fouques, S.; Gramstad, O.; Janssen, P. A. E. M.; Monbaliu, J.; Osborne, A. R.; Pakozdi, C.; Serio, M.; Stansberg, C. T.; Toffoli, A.; Trulsen, K.
Abstract: A wave basin experiment has been performed in the MARINTEK laboratories, in one of the largest existing three-dimensional wave tanks in the world. The aim of the experiment is to investigate the effects of directional energy distribution on the statistical properties of surface gravity waves. Different degrees of directionality have been considered, starting from long-crested waves up to directional distributions with a spread of ±30° at the spectral peak. Particular attention is given to the tails of the distribution function of the surface elevation, wave heights and wave crests. Comparison with a simplified model based on second-order theory is reported. The results show that for long-crested, steep and narrow-banded waves, the second-order theory underestimates the probability of occurrence of large waves. As directional effects are included, the departure from second-order theory becomes less accentuated and the surface elevation is characterized by weak deviations from Gaussian statistics.
Publication type: Journal article
Source: Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Vol. 627 (May 2009), pp. 235-257
Publication year: 2009
FOR Code(s): 0102 Applied Mathematics; 0915 Interdisciplinary Engineering
Keyword(s): Directional effects; Gravitational effects; Surface elevations; Surface gravity waves; Wave basins; Wave crests; Wave heights
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
ISSN: 0022-1120
Publisher URL: http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/S002211200900603X
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