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- A unified deep-to-shallow water wave-breaking probability parameterization
- Filipot, Jean-Francois; Ardhuin, Fabrice; Babanin, Alexander V.
- Breaking probabilities and breaking wave height distributions (BWHDs) in deep, intermediate, and shallow water depth are compared, and a generic parameterization is proposed to represent the observed variability of breaking parameters as a function of the nondimensional water depth. In intermediate and deep water, where waves of different scales may have markedly different breaking probabilities, a BWHD as a function of wave frequency is proposed and validated with intermediate-depth and deep water observational data. The current study focuses on waves with frequencies between 0.55 and 3.45 times the peak frequency fp. For the dominant frequency, the integration of the frequency-dependent BWHD provides a breaking probability that reproduces the known threshold-type behavior of the breaking probability for dominant waves. In shallow water, the present breaking statistics parameterization is consistent with other independent formulations validated by shallow water-breaking observations.
- Publication type
- Journal article
- Research centre
- Swinburne University of Technology. Faculty of Engineering and Industrial Sciences
- Journal of Geophysical Research, Vol. 115 (Apr 2010)
- Publication year
- FOR Code(s)
- 0201 Astronomical and Space Sciences; 0404 Geophysics; 0909 Geomatic Engineering
- Breaking probabilities; Breaking wave height distributions; Shallow water; Wave breaking; Wave height
- American Geophysical Union
- Publisher URL
- Copyright © 2010 American Geophysical Union. Published version of the paper reproduced here in accordance with the copyright policy of the publisher.
- Research Projects
- Full text
- Peer reviewed