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- Wave modelling: the state of the art
- Cavaleri, L.; Alves, Jose H. G. M.; Ardhuin, F.; Babanin, Alexander V.; Banner, Michael L.; Belibassakis, K.; Benoit, M.; Donelan, Mark A.; Groeneweg, J.; Herbers, T. H. C.; Hwang, P.; Janssen, P. A. E. M.; Janssen, T.; Lavrenov, I. V.; Magne, R.; Monbaliu, J.; Onorato, M.; Polnikov, V.; Resio, Donald T.; Rogers, W. E.; Sheremet, A.; McKee Smith, J.; Tolman, H. L.; van Vledder, G.; Wolf, J.; Young, Ian R.
- This paper is the product of the wave modelling community and it tries to make a picture of the present situation in this branch of science, exploring the previous and the most recent results and looking ahead towards the solution of the problems we presently face. Both theory and applications are considered. The many faces of the subject imply separate discussions. This is reflected into the single sections, seven of them, each dealing with a specific topic, the whole providing a broad and solid overview of the present state of the art. After an introduction framing the problem and the approach we followed, we deal in sequence with the following subjects: (Section) 2, generation by wind; 3, nonlinear interactions in deep water; 4, white-capping dissipation; 5, nonlinear interactions in shallow water; 6, dissipation at the sea bottom; 7, wave propagation; 8, numerics. The two final sections, 9 and 10, summarize the present situation from a general point of view and try to look at the future developments.
- Publication type
- Journal article
- Research centre
- Swinburne University of Technology. Faculty of Engineering and Industrial Sciences
- Progress in Oceanography, Vol. 75, no. 4 (Dec 2007), p. 603-674
- Publication year
- Numerics; Wave dissipation; Wave propagation; Wave-current interaction; Wave-wave interaction; Wind waves; Wind-wave generation
- Publisher URL
- Copyright © 2007 Elsevier Ltd. Author's final draft reproduced here in accordance with the copyright policy of the publisher.
- Full text
- Peer reviewed